Trying to decide if a swissy the right dog for you? Ask yourself these questions:

Are all family members who will be in contact with this dog comfortable around large breed dogs?

Is there a training facility in the area where my pup / dog can attend obedience classes?

Is there a veterinarian in the area familiar with swissies or large breed dogs and the problems inherent in large breed dogs?

Have I researched potential health problems swissies can encounter such as (but not limited to):

• bloat
• hip dysplasia
• OCD
• distichiasis, entropion, ectropion, catarax
• epilepsy
• splenic torsion
• allergies

Have I met any GSMDs in person? Did I like them?

Do I have a large fenced area for my swissy to run where he / she can be protected?

Do I plan to share my living space with my swissy (not just my back yard)?

Can I afford premium dog food, training classes, health care, and other necessary items for a swissy?

More things to think about:

A Swissy’s temperament should be calm and steady, often bold. A Swissy is athletic, but does not need hours of exercise. However, you need to be prepared; they are sometimes high energy and may need a productive outlet for that energy. 

Swissies love humans, but often jump, shove their body against and have large paws that they are willing to demand attention with. This is ESPECIALLY true when they are ‘adolescents’; they are very demanding at this time, and need a lot of training ~ they will drive you crazy if you do not train them VERY WELL! They will naturally want to pull even when on a leash.

Many are watchdogs with a fierce bark. They can often scare people (especially children) when they announce visitors...or in some cases announce that your neighbor has visitors. Some bark to get attention, and of course they ‘alarm bark’.

Most accept your guest with a happy tail wag, however, some are more wary, shy, spooky or aggressive. Early socialization is essential.

Some Swissies have a high prey drive and will chase children and other animals, if the children and other animals are running. This seems to be a ‘game’ with swissies that they really enjoy, but because of their size (and therefore the potential danger it holds) it can be frightening. Would you have the patience to train your swissy not to hurt things it runs after? If you have children, do you have the patience to train your children how to handle a situation like this?

Some Swissies have herding instincts. If you are walking as group, they may become upset if everyone doesn’t ‘stick together’. They may also try to ‘push’ you certain ways when walking.

Additional Points:

The Greater Swiss Mountain Dog is a "working" dog. This means they need, they must have, a job or task to do, in their life. Swissies are very strong, and they require obedience training. If your swissy is correctly trained, and has grown up respecting you and your rules, then all his physical and mental strength will work for you. But if he has grown up without rules and guidance from you, he will make his own rules, and his physical and mental powers will often act in opposition to your needs and desires. For example: he may tow you down the street as if hauling a cart to market; he may grab food off the table; he may forbid your guests entry to his home. Your pup will go from being 10 pounds at 8 weeks old, to being 100+ pounds at one year old; this is not the dog to be unruly!

The swissy is a creature of habit! If you move your trash can from its usual place, the swissy will "Barr-rro" (this is a description of the swissy bark) at the can until it goes back to the usual spot or the swissy adjusts to the new location.

Swissies tend to alarm bark for everything--the mailman, the school bus, the garbage man, your husband, even if they have seen that same person jog by every morning for 2 years--they will bark each time he goes by.

The swissy expects to be in your life, at your side, he/she will love you to pieces. If you are looking for a dog that can live its life from the back yard and be happy to spend time with you, when you feel like spending time with the dog - DON'T GET A SWISSY! If you are gone all day and believe your swissy will be happy to have a few hours with you at night – YOU ARE WRONG!

I would not suggest a swissy to a first time dog owner. The swissy can and will be a challenge. This is a breed that I suggest to be owned by people experienced with large, dominant dogs.

No, they do not drool like a Mastiff or a Saint, but they make a huge mess when they drink. They will walk away from the water dish with a mouthful of water, which will leave a trail across the floor.

They shed constantly year-round.

If you have a swissy, everyone will know they are there. This is not a dog that allows itself to go unnoticed.

They are large, powerful puppies who remain mentally and physically immature for a long period of time. They are mouthy puppies and can be unruly. They can be barky when young .... and very stubborn. They must be trained, and trained and trained.

If you are looking for a constant friend, large lap dog, hair shedding, "BarrrRRROO'ing", will herd you children or ducks or neighbors, strong as an ox and weighs more than many people... and you have time to exercise, obedience train, clean up after...then you will LOVE a swissy.

So, you think you want a Swissy?

Not if you don’t want to share your home (not just your yard) with your dog. They are devoted to their people and want to be with you as much as possible. Swissies were bred to share in the work of the family and to spend most of their waking hours working with the family. They thrive on companionship and they want to be wherever you are. They are happiest living with you in your house and going with you when you go out. Swissies should not be relegated to the backyard or kennel. A puppy exiled from the house is likely to grow up to be unsociable (fearful and/or unprovokedly aggressive), unruly, and unhappy. He may well develop pastimes, such as digging or barking, that will displease you and/or your neighbors. An adult so exiled will be miserable too. If you don't strongly prefer to have your dog's companionship as much as possible, sharing many of your activities by day, you should choose a breed less oriented to human companionship. Likewise, if your job or other obligations prevent you from spending much time with your dog. No dog is really happy without companionship, but the pack hounds are more tolerant of being kenneled or yarded so long as it is in groups of 2 or more. A better choice would be a cat, as they are solitary by nature.

Not if you don’t want to spend the time to train your dog. Although they are ‘gentle giants’, they do go through a very stubborn adolescent stage. It’s imperative to teach them to respect you and your rules as this point. If you don’t, you will have a 100+ pound canine that does not know how to behave. They may take food from the tables because they can, try to sleep on the couch or your bed, or take off chasing a cat down the street (with you attached to the other end of the leash). They want to please you, but they need guidance from you to know how. This requires committing to at least a puppy kindergarten course, as well as basic obedience classes before the dog is one year old. I highly recommend having the dog in obedience and socializing them heavily for 2 years. It is essential to do 1-2 short (10 to 20 minute) homework sessions each day while your dog is attending obedience classes, as well as incorporating the lessons into your daily life as often as possible. This training cannot be delegated to someone else (e.g. boarding school) because the relationship of respect and obedience is personal between the dog and the person doing the training. As each lesson is learned, the rest of the household must also work with the dog, insisting that they are obeyed as well.

Not if you lack a ‘leader’ (self-assertive) personality. Dogs do not believe in social equality. They live in a social hierarchy led by a pack-leader (Alpha). The alpha dog is generally benevolent, affectionate, and non-bullying towards his subordinates; but there is never any doubt in his mind or in theirs that the alpha is the boss and makes the rules. Whatever the breed, if you do not assume the leadership, the dog will do so sooner or later, and with more or less unpleasant consequences for the abdicating owner. Like the untrained dog, the pack leader dog makes his own rules and enforces them against other members of the household by means of a dominant physical posture and a hard-eyed stare, followed by a snarl, then a knockdown blow or a bite. Breeds differ in tendencies towards social dominance; and individuals within a breed differ considerably. Swissies as a breed tend to be of a socially dominant personality. You really cannot afford to let a swissy become your boss. You do not have to have the personality or mannerisms of a Marine boot camp Sergeant, but you do have to have the calm, quiet self-assurance and self assertion of the successful parent ("Because I'm your mother, that's why.") or successful grade-school teacher. If you think you might have difficulty asserting yourself calmly and confidently to exercise leadership, then choose a breed known for its socially subordinate disposition, such as a Golden Retriever or a Shetland Sheepdog, and be sure to ask the breeder to select one of the more submissive pups in the litter for you. If the whole idea of "being the boss" frightens or repels you, don't get a dog at all. Cats don't expect leadership. A caged bird or hamster, or fish doesn't need leadership or household rules. Leadership and training are inextricably intertwined: leadership personality enables you to train your dog, and being trained by you reinforces your dog's perception of you as the alpha.

Not if you are a fastidious housekeeper. They shed a little constantly. They love to give you their paw to get your attention regardless of whether it is clean or full of outdoor muck. Their tails are at the perfect height to sweep the coffee table knickknacks right off. Although they don’t drool, they are not the most efficient about closing their mouths after drinking water, or eating. They may dribble food or kibble across your freshly mopped floors.

Not if you are looking for an easy dog to breed as they are difficult (and therefore not cheap) to breed.

Not if you are unwilling to attend to their basic health and grooming needs. They need to be examined by a veterinarian every 3 weeks until they are 4 months old, and then at least once a year. They need a good brushing and nail trimming once a week. If you don’t want to use this time to bond with your dog or are unable to do this yourself, be prepared to spend the extra money to have your local groomer or veterinarian do it. Their teeth need to be brushed regularly and they will need periodic dental care from a veterinarian. They have health problems like bloat and dysplasia that can cost thousands of dollars to treat. (Your best insurance against dysplasia is to buy only from a litter bred from OFA-certified parents and (if possible) grandparents). Yes, this generally means paying more

Not if you cannot afford to buy, feed and provide healthcare for one. The care that goes into keeping the Swissy breed sound and healthy cannot be done cheaply; therefore, they are relatively expensive dogs when purchased from a conscientious breeder. They are large dogs which means that the monthly food bills are considerable. (This also means that the yard pick-up chore is sometimes considerable). Spaying and neutering, as well as any other type of surgery, are more expensive for large dogs because the anesthesia charge is proportional to body weight.

Not if you don’t like daily exercise. They need to have at least 2 half hour daily walks, or one of longer duration, everyday (once they are 2 years old – you should not exercise a puppy, it will get enough exercise by playing). They thrive on play sessions with other dogs, but are perfectly happy to play with you. A well-exercised dog prevents a lot of problems that can occur when dogs are bored and have no outlet for their energy. Even a well-trained dog will misbehave when they don’t receive enough exercise (excessive barking, charging fences, jumping up on people, digging, chewing inappropriately, etc.)

Not if you are not willing to answer the “What kind of dog is that?” question at least 20 times a week (sometimes 20 times a walk).

Not if you don’t believe in providing them with a home for their entire lifetime.

Is a Greater Swiss Mountain Dog Right for You?

 You've probably heard all of the great attributes of these striking, loyal companions, but please consider the following facts when deciding whether the GSMD is the right breed for you:

·Properly raising a Swissy takes time. Does your job and lifestyle allow for the commitment to properly raise and train a working dog? Read on and then determine whether or not a Swissy matches your lifestyle. 

·Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs are a large breed and require space. They also require moderate activity and regular exercise. A true working breed, the Swissy is most content when he has a job or purpose. Swissys are not lazy, lay--around-the-house dogs. 

·Swissys are most content in the company of their families. They are not well suited to kenneling and confinement away from the activities of the household. Though capable of withstanding the elements, the Swissy's nature is best suited to being a family member and house companion.  

·Swissys are alert and vigilant. This means that they will bark at neighbors, guests, and just about anything going on in the neighborhood! They have a natural protective instinct to guard home and family.  

·Most Swissys like the company of children, but NO large dog should be left unattended with young children. Due to the Swissy's robust size and active nature, they can easily topple children unintentionally.  

·Swissys have several major health problems to consider. In addition to the common orthopedic ailments of large breeds, such as OCD and hip dysplasia, the GSMD is afflicted by a very serious condition known as Gastric Dilation Volvulus, or "bloat". This is a life-threatening medical emergency that is all too common in our breed. Epilepsy is another very serious health concern. All of these conditions can be costly to treat and manage. 

·Swissys are strong dogs! They are powerful in physical strength and strong-willed and can often be a challenge to leash train. Swissys love to pull. Keep in mind that children (and for that matter some adults!) may have a difficult time walking a Swissy throughout the neighborhood. 

·Because many Swissys have a well developed prey drive, they require a fenced yard for safe containment. A neighbor's cat or unsuspecting squirrel can become the target of chase! 

·Swissy temperaments vary but are overall quite complex due to their working dog nature and development. Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs are NOT a good choice for inexperienced or first time dog owners. In the hands of an experienced owner, the Swissy can be a wonderful family companion. 

·Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs were originally bred as draft and guard dogs. Like many working breeds, the Swissy has a tendency for dominant temperaments and behaviors. In addition, Swissys tend to be "social climbers". Practicing effective pack leadership is necessary to prevent dominant behaviors from becoming problematic. Greater Swiss Mountain Dogs must learn their place in the family social hierarchy. This takes time, effort and a good dose of patience. 

·GSMDs require diligent socialization at an early age. This means meeting many new people and being introduced to many new situations. Socializing a Swissy is a commitment not to be taken lightly. Some GSMDs may exhibit dog aggression, particularly intra-sex aggression in intact animals. 

·Swissys are slow maturing both mentally and physically. Because of orthopedic concerns related to large breed dogs, great care must be taken to prevent injury during growth stages. Despite their sturdy build, the breed is, in effect, quite fragile during these growth periods. The Swissy is not a breed that can sustain unlimited exercise or activities such as jogging at a young age. 

·Swissys shed!!! A common misconception is that the short coat of the GSMD sheds very little, and nothing could be further from the truth. The Swissy has a thick undercoat which sheds continually throughout the year and requires regular grooming. 

· If you are interested in breeding, you should know that the GSMD is prone to whelping difficulties and often require cesarean sections. Many puppies die, pregnancies often do not ‘take’, placing pups can be difficult, guaranteeing pups is a life long responsibility… They are not easy to breed! 

· Finally, Swissys need TRAINING! Prepare to devote the time and energy to ensure your dog has all of the "tools" it needs to become a good citizen.  

If you’re still thinking of purchasing a swissy, we recommend you read:

“An Introduction to the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog” by Shannon Hennigan.

“Greater Swiss Mountain Dog, A Complete and Reliable Handbook” by Jim Barton. Both are typically available at www.amazon.com.

We also recommend you join the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog Club of America:

Breeder Philosophy / Guidelines

I typically breed dogs that have an OFA excellent or OFA good rating for hips.

I only breed dogs that have an OFA ‘normal’ elbow rating.

I only breed dogs that have a current CERF test.

I only breed dogs that have a sound temperament (not shy, but not aggressive).

I only breed dogs that enjoy being around people (and are considered good family pets).

I do not breed dogs that have epilepsy or produce idiopathic epileptic pups.

I do not breed dogs that produce pups with dysplasia.

I do not breed dogs that have/produce hemophelia.

I only breed large dogs (average female weight 100, average male weight 130).

I strive to produce pups that posses the ‘classic’ swissy look.

I raise pups in a home environment, with children (never in a kennel).

I sell pups under contract.

I require all pups purchased to have health insurance for at least the first 2 years of life.

I request all my puppy buyers have their dogs x-rayed and registered with the OFA at two years of age for hip/elbow dyplasia (even if the pup is pet quality).

I require all pet quality pups be neutered.

I ask all puppy buyers to keep in contact with me regarding their swissies.

I ask all puppy buyers to complete a yearly questionnaire regarding their swissy, and submit yearly photos of their swissy.

I require all puppy buyers to join the GSMDCA and encourage them to join a regional club if they have one in their area.

**Even with the above guidelines, breeding dogs can be a tricky business. Although the utmost care is taken when selecting dogs for breeding, you are always rolling the ‘genetic dice’, and some problems may occur in puppies. Are you ready to face those problems should they occur? Some of the problems which can be associated with swissies are: bloat, hip dysplasia, OCD, distichiasis, entropion, ectropion, epilepsy, splenic torsion, allergies. There are also less common ailments.

Is it possible to stop a swissy from barking when it is accustom to barking at certain stimuli?

This is possible, but it will take effort and consistency.  The first step is to prevent most of it by keeping her inside or bringing her in when the situation occurs.  I'd want to take her out on leash frequently and reinforce her heavily when she quietly notices that the ‘thing’ that is making her bark.

For instance, if people in an adjoining yard are making her bark, go out with her, notice the people in the yard, tell her "good quiet" while she's quiet (she'll probably will be quiet while on the leash, that's why it's on, not for corrections but to allow you to be close to her to deliver treats and pats for choosing to be quiet).  Thank her for noticing the people there and name the "quiet" while she's quiet and treat generously and then go do other things in the yard with her, keep her focused on you as you would if she were thinking of barking in the
house--i.e. you are going to make the yard an extension of the house -- just one big, open room off of the backdoor.

Important point:  Say NOTHING when she's barking, you can distract her or move her with your body or with the lead, but don't say "quiet" especially if she's barking.  This is counterintuitive to humans as we are so "command based" in our thinking.  If you say "Quiet" when she's barking, it becomes essentially the command for "bark".  Instead you say "quiet, goooooood quiet" when she's actually quiet, you are "naming" the behavior so that she can understand what your words mean.  If you have been using the word "quiet" (or "shut up" or any other word, heaven forbid using her name as such) as an interrupter, Stop!!  Use something else to interrupt, preferably not anything verbal, but if you must use a word or can't stop yourself, use "thank you" or "that's it".  The moment, she's quiet, then you can name it by saying quiet (or a new word if you've accidently previously taught her that the word quiet means "bark some more".

Another way to help get her to realize that people are permitted to live next door, is to shape the behavior by standing out there with her (with or without the leash) and ignoring her barks, wait until she stops barking and then deliver treats rapid fire while saying "good quiet".  If she starts barking again, turn your back/withhold the treats and wait for another
quiet moment.  This will be annoying because at first she'll probably bark a lot and only stop for a second, so I'd tell the new neighbors that you are going to work on this behavior pro-actively and that her barking might be obnoxious until you can get it under control - but that you ARE working on it, without punishment so that it will last even when you are not there
to stop her in the future..  Explain to them why she's been encouraged to alert to strangers at this vacant property, and tell them that you'll be working on this and not to be alarmed if she barks and not to interact with her at all -- the less attention she gets for barking the less likely
she'll want to keep doing it.

Correcting her when she barks will only work when you are right there, so it's not a very useful way to stop the barking for the long run, she'll just bark until you arrive to stop her and constant nagging from you to her to "shut up" will likely make both of you antagonistic to each other and more bothersome to the neighbors for longer than it would take to shape the
appropriate response.  You might also enlist the neighbors to help you train her.  Explain to them that they have to ignore her when she barks if you are not right there with her.  And that if you are right with her, they should still ignore her so that she can be rewarded when she's quiet -- Call it "school for Doggie".  You can also have the neighbors occasionally meet her and give lots and lots of approved treats to her when she's quietly greeting them with you. 

More information on swissy behavior

First, Swissies bark, they bark in greeting and they bark in play and they bark loud, long, and to people who don't know them, they sound very frightening, even when they are just happily barking hello.

Okay, some doggy behavior 101.  Whether or not your dog is spayed, she will reach sexual/social maturity at about 2-3 years of age or a little sooner.  If your dog is becoming unmanageable, depending on how you handle this, she could get over it and learn to look to you for answers/decision making OR she could get much more unpredictable.

If your dog runs up to strangers when off leash to woof them, it is a little different than barking when confined, behind barriers, or on a leash.  When dogs are confined or on leashes, they can tend to feel more threatened, and therefore barking is more understandable. If the dog is free to roam, and still feels threatened, the dog is more ‘unsure’ than the average swissy.

Either way, the treatment that I use, should you choose to follow some of my suggestions, will do no harm regardless of "why" she's reacting this way.  The reason I state this is that some of the responses you might receive here or in person from people trying to help you may include some suggestions for you to use corrections (physical or verbal) to punish her
when she reacts by barking/lunging/etc.  I will strongly suggest that you do not choose that path and that instead you seek out the help of a qualified trainer/behavior consultant (you can locate a CPDT near you from the Association of Pet Dog Trainers site www.apdt.com) or better yet a boarded veterinary behaviorist.

In the meantime, my suggestions include eliminating ALL physical and verbal reprimands (punishment/corrections whatever you want to call them) because if she's reacting out of uncertainty/fear (this is the most common reason for "pre-emptive" barking/lunging in all dogs) to the intrusions of strangers, a correction from you will likely only make the problem
worse.  The reason for this is that if a dog feels threatened and the owner then breaks ugly and pops the leash, yells "NO BARKING" or worse gets harsh/physical, the dog is then somehow justified that the "stranger" is the one who caused the problem.  The underlying stress/fear/uncertainty is compounded and accentuated because now the dog fears not only the "unknown" of the stranger but the very person they trust now sometimes turns on them
too.  Once a dog gets it into his head that the approach of strangers (or other dogs, bikes, etc.) make the owner go berserk it can be very hard to win back the trust that we need for the dog to look to the owner for the right choices/decisions.

We can see this behavior problem in Swissies for the most part because they are by nature an extremely "environmentally aware" breed.  They were bred for centuries to do lots of farm type work, including droving, drafting, watch dog for the farm, and some minimal livestock guarding.  These innate behaviors that were sought for many generations make our Swissies very in tune to us, very bonded to us and also very aware of what's changing in their general vicinity all the time.  That's why they bark if you put the car in the wrong place in the driveway, or leave a coat hanging over the back of the kitchen chair or the vacuum cleaner in the middle of the livingroom -- they "alert" to environmental oddities.    This is also why we chant "socialize, socialize, socialize" so much when they are puppies because the more "oddities" they encounter when they are less than 5 months old, the more "elastic" their
perception of "normal" is for life.

Because of this genetic "super awareness", in my opinion, Swissies rarely think that they get corrected for their own actions, instead they think that whatever changed in the environment is what caused them grief, so they quickly learn how to increase their social distance from the "dangerous" strangers or things that are out of place by BARKING at the strangers to make them back up.  It almost always works, because normal people when faced with a large dog barking in their face will back the heck up!!  The dog is briefly successful in increasing social distance (reinforced by people leaping back and/or wetting their pants), but that behavior, of course, makes the owner MORE edgy and the punishments more severe until the
dog simply can't go anywhere anymore because he's so reactive and perceived to be dangerously unpredictable/aggressive.   

Okay, so now you are saying, that's all fine, but HOW do I stop her from barking at people?  The answer is simple and complex at the same time.  I prevent the situation from happening by avoiding, at first, places where I suspect people will approach or startle my dog when I have no control over it.  I practice with dogwise people so that I can read the dog a little
better and see some more subtle signs that the dog is getting uncomfortable --- before the leap/bark/lunge.  I use  a lot of "jolly routine" to keep the dog focused on me and move the dog away from planned (or unplanned) approaches so that I can set up an alternative behavior so that the dog has a clear plan for what *TO* do when faced with a decision about whether to bark or not, whether to greet or not, etc.  This plan will *always* include looking to me for guidance--that has to be the habit that we foster.  We have to teach them that we are the ones to look for when unsure, not to just go ahead and try to control the environment with their own little doggy brains.   I try to incorporate attention behaviors into everyday life so that the dog, without any distractions around, has a clear understanding that I'm going to make the decisions for the both of us and that he/she is not expected to have to choose what to do almost all of the time.  I tell my students that if a dog has made some decisions that are not appropriate in living in close proximity to people they have shown that they are not
equipped to make ANY decisions, at least for a while.  That means, I do some of the "nothing in life is free" and some of the relaxation protocols from Dr. Overall's book and other fun leadership exercises around the house.  The little things, like moving out of my way and following me whenever possible rather than bounding around or lying in my path so that I have to go around or step over.  I own the food and feed on a timed schedule and feed part of each meal as a training treat for simple stuff -- sits, downs, stays, come, watchme, etc.

All Swissys are not created equal.  I had someone tell me recently that she liked Swissys because they were labs in tri-colored coats.  They are not.  If you look at the history of the breed, they were bred to be the farm and draught dogs of the sheep farmers in old Europe.  To do that they had to be very intelligent, strong, tireless, faithful, fearless. They developed a strong herding instinct which gives them the ability to see outward from the farmer and notice the sheep that escape from the herd.  That means they see things that other dogs may not notice.  My lab never barked at the garbage cans if they were on the opposite side of the BBQ pit than usual.  Heaven help me if we have a balloon in the house!

As farm dogs they were also required to "guard" the herd and the shepherds possessions.  Some Swisys have a personality that is not immediately accepting of strangers.  Mine will bark their fool heads off at a car that drives up in the driveway, bark at the person who gets out, regardless of whether they know them or not, and then decide whether they know them.  I figure no one will ever come in to my back yard on their own with these two idiot dogs barking.  My friends know that once they are recognized they are ok.  Others are concerned that my dogs may be vicious.  They are very different from a yorkie barking at you simply because of the size of the dog.  Big is bad!  Some Swissys will accept anyone and act like that lab, invite you in and be friends for life.  Others are more aloof. 

None of my dogs are ever off lead outside my fence.  No dog should be off lead outside a fence. 

If you have not already, get her into an obedience program.  Give her a job and do that job regularly.  Do some hikes, take her to PetsMart, Petco, Home Depot.  Take her herding, work her into weight pulls, try some agility.  Get her out in the world and let people who are not afraid of dogs give her treats and pet her.  I tell my dog class people to take their dogs somewhere new at least one time a week.  Put them into different situations, mild, moderate and scary.  New and familiar.  The more the better.

Above all, keep her on a lead, redirect behavior and teach people how to approach her.

For some dogs you will never eradicate the barking behavior, (you can't stop a beagle from barking!) but you can work with it and maintain some sort of control.  Others you will always have to be on guard watching the road ahead of you for potential "strangers".

Swissys are wonderful dogs, they are not labs or golden retrievers.  We do see behaviors that were bred for the "farm" that do not do well in the cities we live in today.

A confident and well-mannered puppy
How do you teach your puppy to approach people confidently, and then sit in front of them with a relaxed expression? You can help nervous puppies develop confidence by playing the "say hello" game. You will need a friend your puppy feels comfortable with to assist you. Hold your puppy's lead and, after giving the cue "say hello," walk your puppy to your friend.
Give your puppy the "sit" command, have your friend reward your pup with a treat, then lead your puppy away and repeat the game. Keep your voice light and fun, so that your puppy associates approaching someone as a positive experience. Once your pup is eager to approach your friend, use another friend to assist in the game. Keep using different, but still known people, until your puppy is eagerly greeting everyone. Once this is accomplished it's time to play the game with people your puppy is less familiar with. The aim is for your puppy to be comfortable approaching many different people, and then sitting quietly at their feet. Get more info on helping your puppy be confident and well-mannered at:
http://www.pedigree.com/pedigree/usa/PuppyScoops/puppy_confidentpup.htm

From whom should I purchase a swissy ? Buyer…beware.

Swissies can be difficult puppies / dogs to find! It truly pays off to search out and find a reputable breeder. Although it may take a bit more time…good things come to those who wait. In our opinion you should require the following from any breeder:

Sire/Dam testing: We recommend that AT MINIMUM, the sire and dam of any puppy you are considering adopting should have:

• A current CERF test. This is an eye test done by specially qualified veterinarians. Cerfs tell you that the sire and dam do not have evidence of catarax. These can lead to blindness in dogs, and can be passed onto puppies from parents. If a dog can not pass a Cerf test, they should not be bred. A cerf test also tells you if a dog has distichiasis (extra eye lashes), entropion (eyelids rolling in), or ectropion (eyelids rolling out). Dogs with distichiasis, entropion and ectropion can be bred if the dog is not symptomatic.
• Ideally, an OFA hip rating of excellent or good (sometimes breeders use dogs with a 'fair' rating, which can be acceptable also). When a dog is 2 years old, it can be x-rayed and it’s hips can be evaluated for dysplasia. Any dog that evidences dysplasia should not be bred. If the dog is not dysplastic, they will receive a rating of fair, good or excellent. In my opinion dogs with ‘fair’ hips typically should not be bred (but under some circumstances, it is acceptable to do so). A dog can also have a PennHip done. This is another more ‘scientific’ hip rating.
• An OFA elbow rating of ‘normal’. The way a dog is ‘put together’ is very important. If a dog does not have good elbows, it may become lame and require surgery. This too is a trait that can be passed onto pups.
• An AKC registration number. Just because a dog is AKC registered does NOT mean it should be bred. BUT, any dog that is being bred should be AKC registered. Beware. If you call a breeder and ask if their dogs are ‘registered’, sometimes they can honestly say ‘yes’ even though the dogs are NOT registered with the AKC. There are many different dog ‘registrations’. Most of them are puppymill registrations created by the puppymills so they can say their dogs are ‘registered’. A better question is “are the sire and dam registered with the AKC?” If they are not, the breeder you are dealing with may have purchased them from a puppymill (knowingly or not). The conditions in puppymills are atrocious. Each year dogs are rescued from these mills, they are most often in horrible condition. Kept in small cages, bred continually, inadequately fed, not cared for medically. There are many horror stories regarding these puppymills. The pups produced by these unhealthy dogs are often of inferior quality – meaning more health problems down the road for their progeny.

We recommend that the breeder prove these certifications to you. Unfortunately, some people are not always honest. Have them prove it BEFORE you leave to pick up your puppy. Once you arrive and see a darling little puppy face, in most cases, your common sense will fly out the window. Even if the breeder did mislead you, the pup will end up coming home with you anyway. Check it all out beforehand!

• You can verify OFA ratings online at www.offa.org. You will need the dogs AKC registration number. This database will also tell you about puppies this dogs has produced, their sire and dam, siblings, and half siblings. If you find that the dog in question has a lot of relatives with hip or elbow problems, you may want to discuss this with your prospective breeder as these problems are believed, in part, to be hereditary. This is an excellent resource.

We recommend that you ask your breeder about epilepsy (a disease which causes seizures). Epilepsy occurs in purebred (and mixed breed) dog populations. Some purebred dog breeds have a higher rate than others. Thorough research should be conducted by a breeder to determine who in their sire / dam’s lines had or produced epilepsy. Although even the best breeder can not totally eliminate the chances of propogating epilepsy, they can attempt to lessen the chance of it occurring. Not all dogs who have seizures have epilepsy. Seizures can be caused by many things. Epilepsy is diagnosed when no other reason can be found for the seizures. If a reason can’t be found for the seizures, dogs are typically diagnosed with “idiopathic epilepsy” ~ meaning no reason can be found for the epilepsy so it is considered hereditary. Some good questions to ask a breeder are:

• have the sire / dam AND grandsires / granddams produced idiopathic epileptic puppies before? A note: some very good breeders will breed dogs again if they produce low numbers of idiopathic epileptic puppies. Some dogs (especially studs) end up producing over 100 offspring in their lives. If 2 or 3 of them have seizures, this is not a very high rate. It is acceptable in many circles to continue to breed that dog. If just one epileptic pup was produced, there is always a chance that one pup could be a ‘fluke’, and that the seizures could have been caused by something other than heredity.
• Do the sire / dam have siblings that are epileptic? If they do (especially multiple siblings), the chances of that sire / dam being at least a carrier (and perhaps affected) rise.

Unfortunately, even if the above situations exist, breeders can honestly say “not that I know of”. Perhaps epilepsy was produced, but they didn’t research the pedigrees to find out that information OR they attempted to research but were given false information themselves. You can ask your breeder how far back they researched their lines looking for epilepsy. Epilepsy is a tricky disease; even the best breeders produce it. If a breeder admits to producing epilepsy, respect them for being honest. You could ask how they handled the situation. A note: it is my opinion that almost every GSMD has epilepsy in it’s line somewhere, and yet our epilepsy rate is relatively low.

All swissy pups are not created equal! There is a definite difference between pups who should be shown and perhaps bred, and pups who should not be shown or bred. The differences between the two (pet / show) have to do with the way the pup is BUILT physiologically and the pups TEMPERAMENT. For more information on grading/evaluating pups, we recommend “The Puppy Puzzle” by the Hastings. When pups are 6-7 weeks old, they should be graded/evaluated and be given a ‘pet’ or ‘show’ rating. Most of the time, breeders will consult with other breeders regarding the ‘grading/evaluating’ of their litters. If you find a breeder who tells you the only difference between a pet and show quality puppy is the price, be wary.It’s a good idea to ask the breeder “what is the difference between a pet and show puppy?” Their answer will tell you a lot.

Just because a pup is rated a ‘show’ doesn’t guarantee that pup will be breeding material! They should be evaluated continually, and when they are 2 years old, they should have their health clearances performed (OFA hips / PennHip, OFA elbows and Cerf at minimum). IF the dog/bitch is still physiologically a good specimin, and IF the dog/bitch passes their testing, and IF the dog/bitch has a stable temperament, and IF a complimentary mate can be found, THEN the dog should be bred. Breeding is a tricky business and not to be taken lightly. Breeding a dog/bitch that should not be bred, or breeding a dog/bitch to ‘any old mate’ can result in disaster and heart-break for breeders and puppy purchasers. There are many books available on genetics, matching up breeding partners and breeding in general. We can suggest some if you are interested.

Repeat breedings (breeding the same male and female swissy together over and over and over again) can be risky. Because it can take several years to find out what health problems (if any) a litter has, it is risky to breed the same two animals together BEFORE you see how their first litter turned out. If a litter turns out excellent, some breeders will repeat a breeding.

If you cold-contact a breeder and they don’t ask you any questions, but tell you about what puppies they have available, be wary. If a breeder will sell a puppy to anyone who contacts them, you probably do not want to deal with them. If you tell a breeder “I already know a lot about the breed” and they say “okay then, I don’t need to give you any more information”, be wary. A good breeder will MAKE SURE you know everything you can about the breed.

If you cold-contact a breeder and they have pups ‘ready to go now’, be wary. Although occasionally this situation may occur, be careful in proceeding. Don’t fall for the “you better act quickly or it will be gone” ruse. If something seems too good to be true, it probably is. Be patient – you’ll be living with this puppy for many years. Most reputable breeders have waiting lists and screen their purchasers carefully. Do not be offended if a breeder asks you questions regarding your situation. Be happy! Know that the breeder is probably a good one, and checks things out before selling you a puppy.

What does the breeder think of your questions? Are they offended that you are curious regarding their breeding practices? If so, be wary. A good breeder welcomes a well informed potential puppy buyer. They appreciate that you’ve done your homework, and are asking questions.

We recommend that your breeder be associated with the Greater Swiss Mountain Dog Club of America, and that your breeder be involved, to some extent in showing their dogs.

Even if a breeder you encounter seems like the nicest person in the world, be objective. Do their dogs pass the above tests? If not, be wary. You would be better off working with a breeder whom you wouldn’t necessarily be ‘best friends’ with, but who practices sound breeding.

“How much does a swissy puppy cost?”

Keep in mind that GSMDs are a rare breed. The initial cost of a pup will be more than your typical, registered dog. Although the initial cost of your puppy will be a subject of conversation between you and your breeder, it should not be the first question you pose. You should be looking for a breeder who is conscientious regarding their breeding program. If you are ‘shopping around’ to find the least expensive puppy, you may be disappointed with the outcome.

Running a careful breeding program with due regard for temperament, trainability, and physical soundness cannot be done cheaply. The time the breeder should put into each puppy's "pre-school" and socialization is also costly. The "bargain" puppy from a "back-yard breeder" who unselectively mates any two dogs who happen to be of opposite sex may well prove to be extremely costly in terms of bad temperament, bad health, and lack of essential socialization.

If you receive a SeltonSwissies pup, when you arrive to pick up your pup, you will need to have:

the price of the puppy (varies)

the AKC registration fee ($30)

a microchipping fee ($30)

your first year of pet insurance (varies)

your GSMDCA registration fee ($30)

your local club fee ($30) - if a local club exists

The entire amount needs to be paid in cash, a certified check, or money orders.

You should also be considering how much owning a swissy costs. The initial cost may pale in comparison.

First year of ownership: Costs later in life:

$150 - $200 puppy shots $100 - $200 Spay/neuter

$ 80 - $120 heartworm medication $ 50 - $100 Tummy tack (if you want it)

$100 - $150 flea medication

$50 - $100 puppy kindergarden

$50 - $100 intermediate obedience

$20 - $50 licencing

$450 - $720 total minimum $150 - $300 total

This figures do not include food which typically costs $360 - $600 per year.

If your puppy needs extra visits for illness or injury, this amount could be much higher.

Costs that swissies can incur (these can cost thousands of dollars):

Bloat surgery - OCD surgery - Hip dysplasia surgery - Eye surgery - Lifetime meds for epilepsy

We require all puppy purchasers to acquire pet health insurance. Three companies can be found at:

www.petshealthplan.com www.petinsurance.com www.petcareinsurance.com

Before you decide to purchase a swissy, ask yourself this question: “Am I willing to devote the time, attention ,patience, and financial resources to raise this dog to maturity?” If you hesitate in your answer, you do not want a swissy!